Tzintzuntzan (Pátzcuaro), Pueblo Mágico

In my constant search for scenic beauty and cultural and historical interests for my books, Painting Mexico, I came across this captivating town Tzintzuntzan. Tzintzuntzan, a strange name, means “hummingbirds” in the Purhépecha language in Mochoacán, a central state in Mexico.  To get to Tzintzuntzan, travel to Morelia and then to Pátzcuaro.  The site is about 10-miles from Pátzcuaro center, el centro.  

Tzintzuntzan on Lago Patzcuaro

Tzintzuntzan was the ceremonial capitol of the Terascan empire until conquered by the Conquistadores in 1520’s.  It’s now an archeological site with spectacular views of Lake Pátzcuaro and its surrounding, volcanically formed mountains. The nearby village is lively, with a food and crafts market to absorb your interest and satisfy your craving for savory, Mexican food.  Passing through the gateway, you’ll find a monastery, with its spacious garden, chapel and church, to include a hummingbird art exhibit in the monastery.  Wander, explore and adore, for this is an experience from “centuries” past, a lost era.  When I finish writing my “Painting Mexico” book on Pátzcuaro, this magical town will surely be included.  

The park-like archeological site

Great vistas for artists and photographers

Be sure to visit the village to eat and explore the market

The autor 

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Entry gateway to the monastery 

Exploring the market

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Vista near the church 

Franciscan Church

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Nochistlán, ZAC, a Pueblo Mágico

Nochistlán de Mejía, A Pueblo Mágico

The road to Nochistlan, a narrow, rolling ribbon of asphalt, follows a broad valley with undulating mountain ridges appearing on both sides.  Villas, haciendas and roadside stands dot the roadside, often appearing at unexpected intersections as the swaying bus rounds a bend in the road.  The bus stops often, seeming to trade one passenger for another.  A woman climbs aboard and sits up front on an inverted bucket and chats animatedly to the driver.  They are surely old friends….

Nochistlán's Historic Center. 

One of several lovely churches...

Nochistlan de Mejía, a remote pueblo built to sustain the nearby area of farms and ranches, occupies a broad ridge that slopes into a surrounding valley.  Hazy, grey-green mountains frame the town.  Nochistlán, laid out with narrow, gridded streets that are lined with low building built from the stone of local quarries, the earthy colors and painted stucco providing harmony and charm to visitors and locals, alike.  Nochistlán is located in semi-arid mountainous southern Zacatecas. 

j.k. Hannula: Illustrative Plan of the Historic Center, graphite & watercolor on Arches Paper,  22 x 30" , 2018 c.

Nochistlan offers us the opportunity to paint:

* townscapes

* park and garden scenes

* farms, animals and farmland

* mountain-valley landscapes

* themes & studies

A Portale (covered walkway)..

This alluring pueblo is a 3-hour bus ride south of the capital city of Aguascaliente; Nochistlán’s bus station (central de autobuses) is on the edge of town, a 5-minute taxi ride to the historic center, where you’ll find hotels and a vibrant town life.

The Captivating Indigenous Village of Toyahua

Nochistlan has three main areas of interest for artists: the historic center (centro historico), an art walk (Ruta de Vistas), and an indigenous village, Toyahua de Abajo, located about 15-kilometers from town.  

A Lane in Toyahua

Waterfall near Toyahua

An Acquaduct 

The Central Garden (Jardín Principal) 

The Author ( R) with a local restaurant owner

I plan to include Nochistlán in a future book on Painting Mexico.  To see additional photographs of Nochistlán, see an album on my Facebook Page.

Calvillo, Aguascalientes, Pueblo Mágico

Calvillo, Aguascalientes

If you head northward from central Mexico, roughly following the famed Camino Real (the “Silver Route”), you’ll pass near the enchanting town of Calvillo.  An official Pueblo Mágico, Cavillo occupies a broad valley just over a mountain range to the west of the Capital City of Aguascalientes.  Calvillo is more than a town-it’s a municipality that includes a broad region of mountains, forests, and lakes that include waterfalls and recreation areas. Small villages dot the countryside like jewels in a little garden. 

 

Illustrative Plan, Plaza Principal, Calvillo

Bandstand (kiosk), Plaza Principal, Calvillo 

Calvillo will appear in one of my future ‘”Painting Mexico” books. It is a magical town ideal not only for its beauty (landscape painting and photography), but also for hiking, camping and enjoyment of its culture…foods, handicrafts, parades and other events.  I highly recommend camping on the lake near the village of Malpaso, a 20-minute ride from central Calvillo. Here at this picturesque, mountain surrounded lake, you'll find cabins (casitas) for rent, as well as hotel rooms and a few lakeside restaurants. (I spent several days in one of the casitas, as shown in the lake view below).  One could easily spend an entire summer painting in this one location. 

The Lake, la Presa de Malpaso. 

The nearby village of Malpaso also offers many painting opportunities.  Tucked in a narrow agricultural valley, the town has dozens on paintable locations, including the plaza principal and the streets that extend from there.  Below is a map/plan that I made of this plaza.  The arrows show the locations for making great paintings. 

Illustrative Plan, Plaza Principal Malpaso, Cavillo

View of the Church, Community of Malpaso

In the mountains about 20 miles west of Calvillo is a conservation area known as la Sierra del Laurel.  Here, you'll find a lake from which spills a spectacular waterfall, with a cave at its base (see photo below).  There are several rentable casitas at the edge of this lake, an alluring place to relax, hike and paint.  

The lake on la Sierra del Laurel. This scenic lake is a painters' paradise. 

View of a Cave at the Waterfall (la Cascada), located about 25 miles west of Calvillo  Centro.

Learning and Speaking Spanish

Learning and Speaking Spanish

As you likely understand, speaking some español is most helpful when visiting or traveling in Mexico, even if your vocabulary is only a few hundred words.  Speaking some español will allow you to eliminate much of the “friction”-frustration and misunderstandings that often accompany travel.  I emphasize the word “some”, as “some” is infinitely better than none.  Besides basic greetings (‘Buenos dias or Buenas tardes” (with a smile)-and basic vocabulary-you will enjoy your travels much more.   An important thing to learn is counting. 

The author (center) with artist, Pino Siciliano (right) and his sculptor friend, Tivoli, Italy, circa 2103.

If just beginning to learn a language, keep in mind that vocabulary is more important than grammar.  The most important thing is to be able to communicate with simple nouns and verbs without worrying about complex grammar linking them together.  People will understand you; that’s the most important thing. Rather than judge your speaking ability, they will appreciate your effort to speak their language; in doing so you are showing them respect.

I speak from experience; Spanish is my fifth functioning language after French, Farsi, Italian and, of course, my native English. I had the required 2-years of French in college, and then taught Landscape Architecture (in French) at the University of Montréal in Québec.  Most importantly, I leaned how to learn a language (Farsi) in the Peace Corps in Iran, attending an in-country program that was intense and immersive, with native instructors. They corrected our accents and made us repeat words, phrases and sentence patterns until perfected.   I then worked for 2-years totally in Farsi-and some Kurdish. I learned that only by speaking, intense repetition and making lots of mistakes along the way, can one learn to speak another language.  This is how a child learns!  In learning how tolearn a language (like the respected Peace Corps method), was I able to refresh my French and then go on to learn Italian and now, Spanish.  

I work at it constantly by always initiating any interaction by speaking Spanish.  If I need to know a word, I look it up beforehand, as having a needhelps to remember a word.  

I also study Spanish constantly with flash cards and Spanish apps on my smart phone.  I make my own flashcards to develop the psycho-motor connection between hand and brain, sounding the words as I write them to strengthen the neural pathways of memory.  I often review the flashcards while walking or enjoying savory juevos rancherosin a café.  I perfect, as best I can, my language skills by using them. 

Spanish Learning Programs   Here are several language programs that I’ve used over the years, the best of dozens of programs and leaning techniques that I have explored.  

Rosetta Stone.  (Spanish Levels 1-5)  Though a relatively expensive program, Rosetta Stone is worth every penny.  The program uses only images to teach you the words (no English or other language are used). Rosetta Stone has five levels, and cycles through graduated learning exercises based on images, constantly changing the format-from recognition, listening to the pronunciation, repeating, reading and writing.  It uses all the senses (seeing, hearing, and writing-typing (psycho-motor learning connections by using the hand, arm and sight). You are constantly drilled with exercises and quizzes. Though relatively expenses, you can repeat lessons as often as you wish.  

“Great Courses” tm: Learning Spanish(2-levels): How to Understand and Speak a New Language by Professor Bill Worden. These courses are on videos, with guidebooks. Each course consists of 30 half-hour lessons presented by a very talented and effective teacher. The courses are excellent for grammar, reading and vocabulary building; they are viewed on-line and come with apps for smartphone use.  www.theGreatCourses.com.  

Yabla Spanish.   This is a fabulous course that consists of about 1600 short videos that cover a huge variety of topics-from the arts through science, travel and tourism, health, culture, grammar, music, drama, etc.  The videos are produced in most Spanish-speaking countries, so you’ll be exposed to a variety of accents in diverse regions. This course is loaded with exercises, quizzes and flashcards to help you to learn quickly and with much fun.    www.Yabla.com 

Transparent Language   In addition, I subscribe to Spanish Word of the Day, a free e-mail service by Transparent Language.com.  This service presents a word, a sentence showing how it’s used, and a button to hear the word spoken. 

The above courses, programs and methods are among the dozens that I have tried over the years.  Naturally, we each have individual preferences for learning, so I urge you to explore and vary the methods to keep learning Spanish fresh, interesting and relevant to your needs at the time.  Adios!

5-13-2019 

  

The Camino Real (The "Silver Route")

Mexico’s Camino Real, the “Silver Route” 

Mexico’s has an historic route called the Camino Real or, more formally, the  “Camino Real de Tierra Adrentro” (“Royal Road of Interior Land”), a commercial route that extended from the Valley of Mexico to Sante Fe, New Mexico (16th – 19^thcenturies).  The route, then a trail traveled by foot, horses and wagons, included many outposts –forts, haciendas and chapels- to protect the Spanish travelers from attacks by indigenous peoples, especially the Chichimecas.  The route was also called La Ruta de la Plata (“The Silver Route”), because it followed a chain of volcanically formed mountains where minerals such as silver, gold, copper, turquoise and salt were mined.  The 2,560-kilometer (1600-mile) route, now an UNESCO World Heritage Site (Patrimonial Mundial), has 59 historic points along the way.  

This route was well established by indigenous kingdom and tribes long before the Spanish arrived in the 16^thcentury.  Elcamino, used for hunting and trade, connected important locations in Meso-America and the Rocky Mountains by the year 1000. The route follows the long, rugged Sierra Padre Mountain chain, emblematic of the breathtaking “Western” landscape.  

El Centro Historico, San Miguel de Allende

Many of the pueblos in this blog or in my book projects are either directly on el Camino  (Guanajuato City, San Miguel de Allende, Sombrerete) - or were functioning offshoots, such as Dolores Hidalgo, Mineral de Pozos, Calvillo, Real de Asientos, Pinos and Nochistlán.  The adjacent off-shoot towns provided essential services for mining and traveling on the Camino Real, such as security out-posts, banking, supplies and food sources like ranching and farming (San Miguel de Allende, Dolores Hidalgo).

Sombrerete, a Pueblo Mágico on El Camino Real
 

Many of these pueblos have historic Camino Real sites and structures such as churches, bridges, cemeteries, mines, aqueducts, etc.. El Camino now consists mostly of highways and roads that connect or link the recognized sites and structures.  Many of these sites are fascinating and scenic subject matter for painting or photography.  I urge you to visit them. 

The Historic Church/Convento, Atotonilco (San Miguel de Allende)

 My current residence in San Miguel de Allende is on the official route; and several painting locations in my book are Patrimonial Mundial sites. I intend to emphasize, whenever feasible, these captivating sites in future writings. 

Pinos, Pueblo Mágico-an Old God & Silver
Town. 

The follow link summarizes the Camino Real clearly and succinctly: 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camino_Real_de_Tierra_Adentro

The Sierra Gorda Mountains: A Scenic Route

The Sierra Gorda Mountains of Mexico 

The pinnacle of Bernal. This is the second highest monolith in North America.

 I recently returned from a research trip to many towns in the Sierra Gorda Mountains in the State of Querétaro in central Mexico in a region a few hours north of Mexico City.  The trip was rewarding because I “discovered” a number of pueblos and communities that deserve coverage in another book. The places are (from west to east): Bernal de Peña, Piñal de Amoles; and Jalpan de Serra, a town with a group of five Spanish Franciscan Missionary churches (misiones) that are, collectively, a United Nations World Heritage Site(s). From Jalpan, I took a quick trip to Xilitla where Sir Edward James’s incredible garden is the main attraction. Bernal, Jalpan and Xilitla are official Pueblos Mágicos. Together, these places provide a plethora of scenic beauty and historic charm for visual artists and architects, a region where one could spend a lifetime documenting the beauty. I will write about each individual town in more detail in future postings. 

A view of Pinal de Amoles

The Sierra Gorda Mountains are a sub-region of the famous Sierra Madres Oriental, a mountain chain that runs north-south through eastern Mexico. They were formed by a combination of tectonic plate buckling, along with volcanic forces.  As such, the mountains are rugged, varied and panoramic. The area I explored was on the eastern slope of the Gorda where increased rainfall produces lush, sub-tropical topography. All of the above towns and places are located in these breathtakingly picturesque mountains. 

La Parroquia, the church that is the focal point of Pinal.

My research trip took several weeks.  I traveled by public transportation the whole way.  This includes a luxury bus (Primera Plus bus line) from the City of Querétaro to Jalpan; then regional bases and vans (that stop frequently), and a small car driven by my licensed tour guide to visit the mission churches scattered among Jalpan’s surrounding mountains.  Travel time from my origin, San Miguel de Allende, to Jalpan de Serra takes around 6.5 hours (that includes changing buses in the City of Querétaro). 

The Mission Church, Jalpan de Serra.

The road to Jalpan and Xitlia twists through the dense mountains, including heart-pounding hairpin curves edged with cliffs that plummet into canyons below.  (Because of the scenic, pulse-racing drama, this route is popular for motorcycle touring). By mistake, I got of the bus in Pinal de Amoles-early and unplanned-due to confusion on my part.  This was a delightful surprise because, standing at the bus station off the narrow road, I saw spectacular views and decided to stay for a couple of nights on my way back. This rewards my philosophy of finding such places that are “off-the-beaten-path”.

This author map-making at a Mission church.

This posting is just a teaser to explore this scenic route.  I plan to write about each town and place in more detail in future postings.  Adios!       4-15-2019

A view in Sir Jame's garden, Xilitla.

Dolores Hidalgo, Pueblo Mágico

Dolores Hidalgo, Pueblo Mágico

The road from Guanajuato to Dolores Hidalgo climbed steadily, looping around old, sun-bleached buildings, craggy outcrops and groves of weather beaten oaks. The bus that stopped frequently to pick someone up, or drop someone off. Country music blared from the speakers (when the reception was good), but often faded into silence.  Vistas opened and closed like the parting of curtains as we wound through the mountain passes …”  [journal entry Jan 15, 2016]

 

La Parroquia Church. Jardín Principal

If you ever wondered what an authentic modern-day ranching town is like (or not like), Dolores Hidalgo may fit the bill.  A town located in a broad, flat valley in central Guanajuato State, Dolores Hidalgo is considered the “heart of Mexico”, as this is where the insurrection against Spanish colonial rule began (1810-11) –an insurrection which led to the revolution and the founding of the country when the courageous priest, Miguel Hidalgo, led a miners’ revolt against the Spanish colonial rulers. Essentially, Dolores Hidalgo is the equivalent of the towns of Concord or Lexington -where the American Revolution began.

A Streetscape, watercolor.

Although a popular destination for Mexicans interested in their National history, Dolores Hidalgo does not have a “touristy”, international character. Rather, it’s an authentic Mexican town located in a region known for agriculture, ranching, forestry and mineral extraction.  Dolores Hidalgo has a strong commercial pulse, a place that supports a vibrant market area (mercado), and shops (tiendas, botegas) of every stripe.  The town also has a small university that supports a youthful culture with institutions (museums, craft shops, etc.), businesses, services and cultural events. Located in ranching country, Dolores has an authentic “cowboy” culture, noticeable as you pass about town, with many of the men wearing sombreros and cowboy boots. Pickup trucks outnumber autos. For those interested, there’s also a rodeo held on Saturdays. The above map/illustrative plan shows some stunning places to paint in Dolores Jardín Principal.  The map is entirely made by hand and is colored by watercolors.  

Courtyard at Temple Llanido

I selected Dolores Hidalgo because of its significant contrasts to Guanajuato, San Miguel de Allende. Dolores Hidalgo is more “laid-back” and less intensive, a town where the pace of life is slower, more rooted to the earth.  This is a place for artists who enjoy painting gardens, enchanting courtyards, architectural details -and figure studies from café tables and park benches. 

 

Illustrative Plan, Jardín Principal, watercolor & graphite on Arches paper

Dolores Hidalgo is laid out with a grid plan, the streets forming small, nearly square blocks.  The streets are narrow and edged with pueblo-style, one-story casas; the traffic is mostly one-way.  To compensate space-wise for the narrow streets, most casas have interior courtyards to allow the sun and breezes to enter.  As such, you’ll find many delightful restaurants, cafes and shops included in, or clustered around, interior courtyards.  Many are like cloistered gardens, with orange trees, wisteria, potted plants and often a fountain gurgling in the center. 

The Bridge Over El Rio, oil on canvas

Let’s now explore Dolores for its prime painting locations, beginning with its central park, el Jardin Principal. (My book covers about a half-dozen picturesque locations in Dolores Hidalgo.  These places are lavishly presented with maps, drawings and paintings).

Plaza Compositores - Where Musicians Play day-long.

Map/Illustrative Plan of Plaza Compositores

To purchase a “Painting Mexico” book from publisher (less expensive): 

http://www.blurb.com/b/8596527-painting-mexico-magical-pueblos-in-guanajuato

(This site is set to allow you to view all the pages in the book).

To purchase “Painting Mexico” book from Amazon: http://a.co/65YVml8   

Please help me fund my art-travel books by purchasing prints on FineArtAmerica.com.  (All expenses for the production and publishing of these books are self-funded by me.  I consider much of my effort to promote scenic tourism to towns in Mexico to be charity).

To purchase prints of some of the paintings, drawings & maps in this book: www.fineartamerica.com“Jack Hannula” 

Please help!  Purchasing a print of this map will help me to (self) fund the costly production and publishing expenses of my “Painting Mexico” books. In other words, please help me help Mexico’s “magical towns”.  Many are poor.   

I am frequently asked, “How do I buy your art, Jack?”  Because of these many requests, I am making quality prints of my maps and some of my art available for purchase on the Internet.  To purchase prints, follow this link: www.fineartamerica.com“Jack Hannula”.